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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30903

  • Si06
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Hi I have fitted the Skyline speed-tuned gear set to my original top force I used the 69T spur with a steel 24T pinion and a Technigold motor.

I have noticed now the front tyres seem to be wearing out a lot faster then before ok they used to wear out faster than the rears due to having to do the steering as well as some of the drive but now its getting to the point where I can actually see the difference in wear rate after every run.

I can only think that this might be down to the fact that now with the new 69T spur in the rear gearbox there is a difference between ratio's between the front and rear gear box (Front running slower than the Rear).

If this is true would this be the cause of the excessive tyre wear and if so is there a gear set or gears for the front gearbox ? Maybe from another Tamiya model Ta-01 ect ect.

Car is run on a mix of dusty hard clay and carpet a track me and a friend built on his farm I am using the Tamiya Top Force pin spike tyres front and rear.

Your thoughts on this please as I am going through front tyres at a ratio of 2 sets to 1 on the rears.

Thanks

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30904

I don't know anything about the Top Force geartrain, but I'd think it unlikely that it would be possible to drive front/rear wheels at different speeds.
I'd say it's more likely there's either too much front end toe-in/out, play in the steering/suspension linkages (Allowing the wheels to toe in/out under power) - With the car on the ground, turn the rear wheels by hand & note which way the front wheels point when clawing at the ground trying to pull the car away from you. The toe-in/out can be vastly different between the car just sitting there, & when under power, if there's any play in the linkages

Or, if the tyre's you're starting with are different sizes front/rear before you start - Wider worn rears will grip more & scrub out larger new narrow fronts due to transmission "windup" (Assuming there isn't a centre diff). - this is a big problem with 1:1 4x4s, which is why you should change their tyres as a set of 4x all the same size & make

Try one-way front driveshafts (Or a centre diff if one's available), if squaring up the front end doesn't work.

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30905

The TA03 one way diff will fit the Top Force, an original torque splitter will be hard to find.
Can't see how a speed tuned spur would influence the front and rear gear ratios differently...

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30908

I never had any problem with the speed tuned gear on my TA 02 nor on my manta ray wich has the same set.

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30909

I think the problem is more to do with your tyre choice rather than the gear set. The hard pin spikes were never designed to be run on hard surfaces. You're wearing the fronts down quicker because of they are working harder than the rears to steer and drive the car.

Hard spikes are made for digging in to loose soil, grass, etc.

Move to a more suitable tread/ compound for the hard clay carpet track and you should see much less tyre wear and improved handling.

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30912

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Ok thanks for your reply's guys I have Set the toe and camber to the neutral position seems the wheels were pointing out ever so slightly might go for a little toe in on the front and see how that works The manta ray torque splitter is on the Bay right now bit pricy but if this fixes the tyre wear so be it.

Any ideas on what tyres are going to be best to use I have a set of blazing star Wheels and tyres I can throw on but any one who has had this buggy will know the tyres are Dire and grip nothing but are rock hard so wont wear.

Just off the hook I know but any one got the battery holder for a Top Fore they are from the J Parts tree currently holding the Pack down with tie wraps witch is horrible IMO.

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30915


Just off the hook I know but any one got the battery holder for a Top Fore they are from the J Parts tree currently holding the Pack down with tie wraps witch is horrible IMO.


jasons-store.hi...ce-j-parts
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem mate :)

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30916


Just off the hook I know but any one got the battery holder for a Top Fore they are from the J Parts tree currently holding the Pack down with tie wraps witch is horrible IMO.


jasons-store.hi...ce-j-parts


9115041 Tamiya Top Force J Parts is out of stock or currently not available. :whistle:

Good news I might have some in my stash.

BTW concerning the front wheels wear, maybe the front differential is to tight so one wheels turns to fast/Slow

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Last edit: by waterbok.

Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30917

I'm no expert but the slight front toe-out should help you drive in a straight line on power. Neutral front toe will make it hard to keep straight but should slightly increase your speed as no power is being scrubbed by the tires. Don't know anyone that runs front toe-in, I imagine the car would be difficult to control. Camber is slightly less important on tires that do not have a flat contact patch (street tires). The idea being keeping as much tire in contact with the ground at all times. Slight negative camber should help impove steering and cornering speed but if your running a tire with a rounded contact patch or big spikes there's not that much in contact with the ground if the track is flat and hard packed.

Tyre choice is a science in itself. Soft compound for hard tracks, hard compound for soft loose tracks. If your mostly on dry hard clay with a thin dusty layer on top you want something that will scrub away the thin top layer and contact with the hard packed clay underneath. Something with a soft to medium compound with small mini spikes or bow ties. Take a look at the tamiya 54185 tire to get an idea of what I'm talking about, you'll have to check what wheel you need for that tire as well.

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Top Force Spur 12 years 1 month ago #30918

I'm no expert but the slight front toe-out should help you drive in a straight line on power. Neutral front toe will make it hard to keep straight but should slightly increase your speed as no power is being scrubbed by the tires. Don't know anyone that runs front toe-in, I imagine the car would be difficult to control. Camber is slightly less important on tires that do not have a flat contact patch (street tires). The idea being keeping as much tire in contact with the ground at all times. Slight negative camber should help impove steering and cornering speed but if your running a tire with a rounded contact patch or big spikes there's not that much in contact with the ground if the track is flat and hard packed.

Tyre choice is a science in itself. Soft compound for hard tracks, hard compound for soft loose tracks. If your mostly on dry hard clay with a thin dusty layer on top you want something that will scrub away the thin top layer and contact with the hard packed clay underneath. Something with a soft to medium compound with small mini spikes or bow ties. Take a look at the tamiya 54185 tire to get an idea of what I'm talking about, you'll have to check what wheel you need for that tire as well.


Your grasp of suspension geometry is so wrong it's made my eyes hurt :blink:
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