TOPIC:

Hi!
I'm currently dismantling and rebuilding two old RC10's I have had for years. One will be close to stock/original, while the other will be heavily modified with "everything"

I was debating what screws I should go for on the modified.

What are the pros and cons of using titanium, aluminum or stainless steel screws?

Aluminum pros: lightweight, cheap
Aluminum cons: heads would strip easily, could break when used in high tension areas

SS pros: cheap, strong
SS cons: heavy

Titanium pros: ???
Titanium cons: ???

HELP!!

I was recently doing some reading on modifying a MO5. This Japanese driver amongst other things changed from standard driveshafts to Titanium driveshafts. Total weight saved for just this was 2gms. Is the extra cost worth it. What distance will 2gms give you in a race and all it takes is one wrong corner and it's all been for nothing.

I raced full size cars for several years. My car was completely standard in the engine / drive-train but brakes and suspension were modified. I didn't make as much power as the other guys / girls but was able to put all the powerI made to the ground and could out brake and corner them. Something to think about.

Cheers Vincenzo

For Titanium screws, my experience is that the countersink screws are way too fragile at the base of the head, causing them to break...

Aluminium, as you say, the heads will easily strip.

-Lars

Which model of RC10 are you talking about? I ask because not only are the screws Imperial sizes (UNC #4, 40 tpi & #8 / 32tpi) but some of them are pretty specialised ... for instance the screws that go through the underside of vintage gold tubs are aero spec screws - and have a different/unique countersink angle.

Maybe things have improved now, but when I last bought screws for a RC10 (a gold tub based Ascot Sprint car, and it was a few years ago) I had the choice of black high tensile or nothing for some screws, and re-using some original screws or nothing.

Jonny wrote:

Which model of RC10 are you talking about? I ask because not only are the screws Imperial sizes (UNC #4, 40 tpi & #8 / 32tpi) but some of them are pretty specialised ... for instance the screws that go through the underside of vintage gold tubs are aero spec screws - and have a different/unique countersink angle.

Maybe things have improved now, but when I last bought screws for a RC10 (a gold tub based Ascot Sprint car, and it was a few years ago) I had the choice of black high tensile or nothing for some screws, and re-using some original screws or nothing.

Yes, these are the older ones with the 100 deg. countersunk holes. I suspect both to be CE's, one might have started life as a Cadillac. And those imperial sizes are driving me mad.... What a medieval system that is....

I went with the aluminum, brought them from Tower Hobbies, I'm going to Vacform a chassis under tray so i won't aear out the screws

cheers Bullfrog