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I want to repaint my RALT F2 body. Jonny adviced me to use X3 royal blue. I ordered 2 jars of 10ml and now , I need advices. I use an airbrush tamiya spraywork and a classic 0,2 0,4 0,6 mm airbrush. Which dilution have I to use? And which pressure on my compressor? I will use a primer spray too. Thanks for advices Flo |
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I haven't used a Tamiya Spray Work compressor so had to read up on it, I found the manual and a couple of reviews the most helpful:
www.tamiya.com/.../74520.pdf gunbies.com/201...sh-review/ gundamph.com/20...-airbrush/ Which airbrush are you planning to use? From the manual I understand that the kit spraygun and suitable airbrushes have to have air flowing continuously, or the compressor will break If you are going to use the kit spray gun, I would try the middle setting first. Tamiya quote 0.11MpA pressure on the box - which I converted to be 15.95psi. One of the reviews said 20l/min, which they converted to 15psi. The manual also gives figures - 15psi is the maximum, but 7psi is quoted as the maxiumum continuous pressure. Dilution rates, it's often said that paint should be the consistency of milk ... I would suggest for a fresh pot of paint, stir very well & use everything in the jar (the full 10ml) and add 5ml of the X-20A thinner. Mix in a separate jar, not the paint cup. Practice on scrap card first. Expect to need several coats on the car (I'd say 4 or 5, certainly at least 3). Expect to have to clearcoat it too, you may not get a shiny finish without it. I can't help much more than that, my limited experience has been with quite different kit. (0.35 double action airbrush, 35psi +, 2:1 paint to thinner). |
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Wooohhh! Thanks Jonny your help is really precious. I am waiting 2 jars of new paints. A primer base too like you adviced me .
PS: Should I spray clear coat before or after applying decals? (MCI repro ones) |
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Last edit: by stingray-63.
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Used to use the same type of compressor as the one pictured but occasionally it would spit water which would blemish the paint & leave me fuming over the time I'd just wasted. Checked with the professionals who said it's normal especially if the temperature fluctuated throughout the day & night. The only way to prevent it from ruining future work was to get a compressor with a pressure regulator. Then you have to regularly bleed the tank once completely full to help force the water out which sits at the bottom of the tank. It isn't much with the little desk sized compressors but can be a bit in the full sized type we have in the garage & the moisture isn't good for tools that run on compressed air. I don't think I've ever seen a full sized compressor without a regulator fitted but many of the cheaper airbrush compressors don't come with one.
My other car is a Tamiya - bumper sticker on my van
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Last edit: by rcmadkiwi.
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I have 2 types of airbrushes/compressor.
1 Tamiya spraywork 1 airbrush with 0,2 and 0,6mm buses and 1 compressor with pressure regulator. Which pressure do I use with this compressor? I will use X3 Tamiya paint (diluted like milk info from Jonny). What is the best? |
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I'd say a nice, small, new, quiet, oil-less compressor with a regulator and moisture trap would be better than the Tamiya Spray-Work unit, but is your compressor all of those things?
0,2 needle/nozzle sounds very small, I think the 0,6 will a better match for spraying a single colour on an RC body. I'd start at 25 or 30psi just to get the paint flowing, but with that big nozzle I'd expect to have to have to reduce the pressure for better control. |
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