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I found out the hard way. My Dyna Storm body is now ruined as it is foggy.
On Tamiya site it says if can be used on polycarbonate and will not cause clouding, which is not true!
I was planning on using this body and after I became cloudy I was thinking of wet sand it with 600, 800 and 1200 paper, clear coat before paint. But now the body is also brittle and and one part actually broke off.

That's unfortunate  

I don't know if you can 100% blame the Paint Remover (even if the description for it always seem to mention being "kind" or not making polycarbonate cloudy), we just don't know what sort of paint had been used on that body, how long ago what prep the painter did, how its been stored in the meantime, etc etc - and what Tamiya's criteria for success was. It could have been removing a tiny bit of overspray the day after painting with PS paint & what they said would be "true"  

I'm surprised to see no caveats or "try on an inconspicuous area first" type boilerplate though. 


IIRC the only similar product that mentions what paint & how long ago is Carson Paint Killer, as successfully removing 10 year old acrylic. Even that leaves enormous wiggle room - there's a lot of difference between brush painted acrylic directly over unwashed plastic, and thinned, airbrushed paint over primer, for example.   

I've had partial failure stripping polycarbonate, a supposedly "polycarbonate safe" gel clouded the inner surface and well into the material, I've also had success with very strong NaOH when others have seen total destruction. I had great results with a specific tar & glue remover (tamiyabase.com/...-rc-bodies - I see I mentioned reports of Paint Remover causing cracking 6 years ago) that's now been discontinued. I've never tried Nitro fuel or brake fluid on polycarbonate, but reported results seem to be  anywhere between "made it like new again" to "dismantled itself just sitting on the bench". 





I've come to the conclusion that polycarbonate is not really something you can really restore, you can do small bits of retouching or fixing, maybe polish the outside & put new stickers on it, but the only real way to "restore" a polycarbonate body is to entirely replace it.

But yeah, it's frustrating when you would have been further ahead by doing - and spending - nothing.


ETA - and what I meant to post before going off at a tangent - limited cloudiness on just the inside surface isn't necessarily a problem, it'll blend right into lighter colours, or you can sand it back & leave the sanding marks, the paint will fill them in. "Keying" the inside surface (but not the windows) was often recommended BITD when brush painting Tamiya PC paint was the only option on kit Lexan
 

Nitro fuel do work, but not on Tamiya PC paint.
I stripped this Axial Honcho body earlier this year with nitro fuel.


But I belive Tamiya PC paint is fuel proof, unless it's old PC jar type. Mineral spirits is said to work on that.
Don't know what the Axial body was painted with but it worked great with nitro fuel.
Tried nitro fuel on the Dyna Storm body and it would not shift the paint at all even after rubbing for 15 minutes.

Heard great things about Carson Paint Killer.
I should have waited and ordered that stuff. I see 2 shops here in Norway has it in stock.

I never had real succes on polycarbonate bodies with any products. Except sanding. Caustic soda, dot 4, nitro fuel..... except nitro fuel fumes around the exaust pipes same with tamiya fuel protector. The best way I had when I restored my dirt thrasher was to custom it and paint the body in flat black by outside. I killed a lot of vintage bodies. And finally, I bought  repro from natanael.  
ps tamiya sprays are very agressive. Same sand blasting didn't work on my toyota racer body.