TOPIC:

the shouldered screws are missing i've used "top hat" bushes and they work fine but the c hub screws are the same "wrong " no shoulder do the ones from the ta01 chassis fit?

Sounds to me like it's got the wrong screws in the suspension top-links if it all binds up when you tighten them - take them out & have a look, they should be shoulder screws (Self-tapping screw with a plain bit under the head).

IF they're the right screws, try using a washer to stop the shoulder of the screw crunching down too far into the plastic (Put the screw through the link first, then a thin washer, then screw it together)

If they're the wrong screws (ie I'm guessing they'll just be standard self-tappers without the plain shoulder bit) make a sleeve out of thin metal tube, to go over the screw. It needs to be just everso slightly longer than the thickness of the top link, so the screw seats on that instead of the link, if that makes sense. Old tranny aerial tube is ideal for this sort of thing.

Another option is to use M3 machine screws with a locknut - screw the screw in but leave a small gap so the link can still move, then tighten the nut against the chassis plastic, to hold it in position. A bit gash, but it should work, if you haven't got some tube or the proper screws.

Quite a posh one you've got there, I'm jealous!

For some reason I missed your last post...
Ok, as far as I know, the "Kingpin" shoulder screws (The ones the hubs pivot on for steering) are the same as TL01, as should be the self-tapper shoulder screws for the top-links. BUT what I suspect has happened is the originals didn't work with the alloy bits, & got ditched.

Have you got any digital/verier calipers? (If not, get some, they're invaluble! - less than a tenner for a cheapy set off Ebay) - if you get REALLY stuck, do me a sketch with some fairly accurate measurements & I'll have a dig about to see what I've got

got the suspension to work freely now ...the hubs are a different matter as i remember the manta ray i had was similar had the problem of them coming loose but binding if tightened them too much.....hence going alloy on this one but the screws i have for it are shoulderless(wish they had sent /kept the standard parts...i do)i think the thread is m4 and the shoulder is exactly 5mm any help is appreciated



this is one of the culprits needs a 5mm length shoulder on it was on ebay saw sp 585 has anyone got any to measure them see if they would work?

which chassis does the wild dagger use?

The Wild Dagger has a chassis of it's own that was also used on the Twin Detonator.
Tamiya Usa has the manual here (click on "product manual").
You will really need a step screw (king pin) for the C hubs - the dimensions are 4x11.5mm.
#53141 is the official hop up...

The teflon tape I mentioned earlier is still a good addition for them not to come loose so easily through vibration.

For some reason Tamiya Usa cannot be reached at the moment though.

got that in my bookmarks ...forgot about it though as usual thanks for the help have found some on ebay 5 of for a reasonable 3gdp also ordered some 10x4's just to be on the safe side and some 850 bearings

Btw - 53585 is a 3mm shim set (inner diameter) which is good to have around but will not work on the step screws.
For shimming these (probably not necessary with new ones), you'd need 5mm shims. Which would be #53587...
The "flat" bit on the king pins is 5mm (fitting 850 bearings) and the thread is 4mm.

Edit - sounds good what you ordered.

Nevermind that last bit I wrote - you were talking about 50585 and not 53585.
Eddrick was coincidentally talking about washers before which is how I came to the subject...

The shorter screws will probably also work. I did that on my DF-01 without any issues.