TOPIC:

Hi Tamiya and Kyosho friends, are the parts of the 2010 Sand Scorcher compatible (or other Tamiya Sand Scorcher that Tamiya released after the original vintage one- are there more?) to the vintage Sand Scorcher?

See 3rd Photo: I'm doing my best to revive (quite grueling in tandem keeping things at cost) this patient's (can't move now in a way) vintage Sand Scorcher, I wanted to ask if the 2010's Sand Scorcher parts will work with the vintage Sand Scorcher? The sellers seem to be on vacation (a lot are), the 2010 rear bumper/rear guard seem to be on the picture on left.The vintage one is the photo on the right, though I'm not sure if this is a new old stock coz' the description says * Pulled from a Brand NEW TAMIYA SAND SCORCHER Kit *or if it's reissued by Tamiya or it's a clone:

See 2nd Photo/Middle Photo attached: if the 2010 Sand Scorcher parts are compatible with the vintage Sand Scorcher from the 80's how will the old antenna be mounted or be installed on the springy type antenna of the newer Sand Scorcher (attached is the antenna of the vintage Sand Scorcher)Btw, this seems to be another version of the springy antenna of the new Sand Scorcher it seems (how will this be attached to the old antenna as well)?

See 1st photo: lastly, is there a significant difference between the two springy antenna design in terms of perfomance like transmission range? Or is the old antenna design significantly better (though not as stylish)?

Thank you in advance, recommendations and advices are very much welcome.

God bless RC racers and the Tamiya Masterace.

So much to unpack we could be here all day, but fundamentally, yes, almost everything on the re-release (2010 to present) Sand Scorcher is compatible with the vintage (1979 to 1982/3?) Sand Scorcher model - they just might not look exactly the same. For instance, the a new body will fit, but doesn't have the curvy wheelarches of the original - and the wing mirrors are vry different in the way they fit. Dampers can be swapped from one to the other, but not all the parts are interchangeble.

I'm not aware of their being any clones of the Sand Scorcher, though there are plenty of aftermarket parts, both old and new.

The antenna is the single wire that comes out of the radio reciever on the car, anything else is just there to hold it up. Older 27mhz units tend to have very long antennas - more than you can possibly use on a 1:10 car, but tend to be less good than later 27mhz receivers with shorter antennas. A modern 2.4ghz RX is likely to have an antenna no longer than a finger and will never reach the back of a Sand Scorcher, but will have the best range of all.

That said, you can maximise the control with a long antenna by proper placement, giving regard to "effective" height. Any excess antenna wire ought to be coiled up next to the receiver, and the very end should be the highest point on the antenna holder/whip/tube.


This is a proper Sand Scorcher antenna whip for both old and new cars, though the filter & fact that it's straight and not on a car make me think it's a new one. The aluminium boss on the bottom left is held on the the plastic rear cage with an M3 screw, the whippy bit is twisted onto the boss, and the reciever antenna wraps around it.



IDK what that is, but it has no business being fitted on any Tamiya car at all, let alone a vintage (or even new) Sand Scorcher




The metal rear cage and antenna on the left are recent aftermarket parts. The antenna IMO is purely for show, IDK if you could put a "correct" antenna on it. The correct rear cage for all Sand Scorchers is the black plastic one on the right, old and new are visually identical but the new one may have some additional plastic recycling codes on it.



If you really wanted to put a tubular (black, or almost clear) antenna tube on your car, you could with Tamiya part number 13455035.

 

Thank sir Johhy Retro, if you were me (not particular in making it look original, it's more of whichever looks cool without much price difference between parts and to be as cost effective as possible, a balance) which the two designs for the rear bumper design would you buy you feel based on the tx and rx I bought:

Kyosho Perfex KR-14 receiver AM 27Mhz bandwidth, (w/ Kyosho RT-14 Wheel Controller)
then a LRP IPC Sport electronic speed control (it has a funky positive negative, I'm not sure if there'a an adapter to connect it to the racing battery packs's female connector, I don't want to solder it, I'll worry about it later but you may have a solution in advance)

I'm not sure if those are good brands and models but I got them all for 65USD

Hi, I'm not racing off road at the moment, perhaps I'll just drive it on a pavement or the house's straight tiles to look chill, will  this work for the vintage Sand Scorcher, it may not have the clearance for even the straight ground nor the clearance for the axles:

search: Gold Wheel (the one that looks like it has lots of wires or spokes) on Red Cat Racing's website (I still can't post links being newly registered).

Thanks in advance.

God bless R/C racers.

By the way the motor (it's a fast non-stock motor a LeMans green set to 5, the max) has no male wires to connect to the BE4 of the speed control, what are those male connectors called, I hope they're standard so I can buy it from anywhere where there's electronics (way cheaper)

www.amazon.fr/C...hdGY&psc=1

I think you're looking at Redcat # RER14434 for the SixtyFour/Impala low rider? The hub fitting is completely wrong, those need a 12mm hex fitting.

The Sand Scorcher has a totally proprietory 2-bearing fitting on the fronts & a 5-lug fitting on the rear, so you're limited to the wheels/tyres from Tamiya cars of the same period that have the same fittings. If you want a more road suitable tyre, the easily available options are the Tamiya Subara Brat wheels/tyres (white 8 spoke), or Tamiya Buggy Champ (grey 5-spoke) which has narrower fronts.   

Motor connectors are 3.9mm "Japanese Bullet" connectors, most usually found on Japanese motorbikes of the 1970s & 80s. You really need the correct crimping tool _and_ to solder them on.

The connector you have on the speed control is a "T" connector, or, more commonly, a "Deans" connector. I can't say I like them myself, but the standard "7.2v Tamiya" connectors don't work very well after a short while.

There is actually a solution to this.

HPI 6120 is a adaptor kit. With that there is a 5 lug to 12mm hex adapter that you slide over your orginal 5 lug hub.
Only thing you need to do is grind off the nub sticking above the hex part as it will not fit into a regular 12mm hex on the wheel without enlarging the center hole.
And in some cases you have to drill the hole in the adapter to the axle shaft size. I belive it comes with 5mm bore.

Just take a note that kit came many moons ago so it might be hard to come by these days.

Hi RC friends, what is the best overall 4 wheeled 1:10 scale RC racing car for usual the off-road circuit w/ a mix of small gravel sections, curves, a straight & jumps 4WD or All Wheel Drive off-road electric RC out of the box from any brand by far (balanced in price, good looks, availability to be modified including 3rd party modifications, and performance including drift performance, quality of parts out of the box, quality of controller out of the box if they come with controllers- if comes quality wheel controller that's better than the stick controller out of the box) ever made and can be bought new (includes new old stock)? And which 4WD or All Wheel Drive is the best different categories in context from the specifics above:

A. performance, high chance of winning and is a good drifter

B. style

C. most modifiable and most 3rd parties make for

D. quality of the parts out of the box

E. quality and performance of controller included (assuming they are not sold separately by default by manufacturers)

F: price

Thank you.

God bless RC modifiers.