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It seems to be an issue with imgur in some case : all the pictures are on imgur and shared as a link with the img indicators. And apparently, it is the same for some people on Tamiyaclub...
And apparently, imgur lost some of my old pictures, and I don't have a clue why it happened. Not sure if I can do something about it... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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Last edit: by silvertriple.
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The Mugen Mercury 4Xi was a nightmare to measure leading to discrepancies in dimensions. It's too long to measure, and there is no part allowing to derivate properly the measures for the chassis halves. 3D scanning doesn't work well with black parts.
I decided to do different route. THe 3 axis probe installed on the Carvera Air thanks to community firmware/controller could be very helpfull here. So the approach is the following : - Chassis is fixed on the CNC table - I decided that my reference axis to the center of the diff cages - I probed the rear one using the probe bore function and set my work origin using this - I probed the front one using the probe bore function and using simple maths and trigonometry I found the angle of the axis between the two holes. - I set the work coordinate system rotation to that angle : X is now moving along the defined axis and Y perpendicularly to this axis - Next I can probe any bore/pocket with defined geometry/boss/block with defined geometry to find the center of each of those : I just have to note the coordinates as displayed when the probe is set back to center of the probed element - for the edges, it appears to be more complicated as the data need to be noted in absolute coordinates (as provided by probe interface), which means I will have to convert them into the rotated work coordinate system. In short, it is work, but it is really promising... (and yes, had to use sinus, cosinus, tangent and arctangent functions, which I did not used since I'm out of my engineering studies I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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I did not know about this. I can't do anything about it... That's a shame I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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You may have a look at my facebook page times to times if you have a facebook account :
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I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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I did try in the past many Nylon PA12 non filled. They are a pain in the badword to print due to warping, specifically on long parts which tends to detach of the bed due to the geometry... Today, I tried with another nylon: Sunlu EasyPA, PA6/66, Natural
And the result is fantastic... For the printing conditions : Sunlu EasyPA fully dry (drying : 12 hours at 85°C), Bambu Lab PA support dry (Drying : 12 hours at 80°C) Bambu Lab H2D, used genericPA profile with no modification. Bambu Lab PA support used only for support interface. No warping and parts dimensionally accurate. This nylon is really perfect, it has a fantastic layer adhesion and it is low friction. Only negative : the PA support sticks too well to it to my taste and support removal was a pain in the badword. At the end, it has the vintage natural nylon coolness, and it will be super easy to dye... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
The following user(s) Liked this: caprinut
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