TOPIC:

Thanks guys, I gotta say I really love this chassis. Here's another pic - notice how elongated the car actually is :



For high speed stability! Hopefully.
Wiring still needs to be shortened a bit though...

@Louisbaby :
With the A6 part (that you will hopefully receive soon) it is possible to give more length to the chassis.
I think the Street Devil uses the shorter wheel base and this part is left out of the build.
With it you could also fit the longer race car bodies if you'd want to.

Here's a post with an awesome upgrade!

So far in the thread I've mostly discussed the front end. Ending with the titanium screws.
As a final detail I can add that I received a (#50395) racing developed front upright set.
This contains quite a few springs of different hardness that I will probably be able to use very well.


Conversion of a Group C motor mount into F1 alloy

In my opinion the most brilliant upgrade you can give a Gr.C chassis.
Since it is closely related to the F1 chassis, the dimensions are the same and the motor pod parts are interchangeable.
But only with a few adaptations...


The biggest disadvantage of the basic Group C motor mount is it's limited adjustability to pinion sizes.
It uses AV (0.6 module) size pinions and (I think) the range is limited to 18 teeth.
The diameter of the 19T looks to big already - although I have to say I have not actually tried the set up :



Using the aluminium sides meant for a F chassis you can not only increase this range with the regular spur size but it also offers the possibility to install RD (racing developed - 0.4 module) style spurs and steel RD pinions.
Resulting in a (very awesome) easy adaptability of the gear ratio with speed developed parts.
The F1 motor mount is height adjustable additionally...

Last - but not least - the aftermarket spurs that can now be used usually have more diff balls than the Tamiya set up.
The 70T spur that comes with the car has only six which can cause a bit of a stability problem - a wiggle so to say...
I have a 99T Eagle Racing spur on the car now (left) that has eight diff balls but the spare (98T) Kawada has twelve!


So many reason to go looking for a nice aluminium upgrade. And I found this one :



I bought it from the picture and expected another parts search but to my surprise it contained the complete set up :



- Four sets of adapters to determine the height of the wheel axle
- All the screws you could ever need
- Two flanged 1060 ball bearings (original needs 1260)
- An adapter/spacer for the left side of the wheel axle
- Of course the two black aluminium sides of the motor pod

First up is to dismantle the rear pod - with only 4 screws and detaching the (TRF!) damper :



Rear shaft and motor taken out :



Screw on the new motor mount parts - including height adapters and bearings :



Not that much of a weight difference, although it is aluminium vs plastic :



Then reassemble the (carbon!) wheel axle - here you can see what the left side spacer (right for the viewer) is for :



Next step is to put the motor back in and attach the pinion :



Of course around this point (a little later) I realised the modules of the spur and pinion didn't match.
No choice but to get the right pinion. A few actually, to make changes in the gear ratio :



And the alu tape that got stuck in the back of my head... did Jonny Retro mention that somewhere?
If you did, thanks. Should be good stuff to fix the body a bit.

Last step - put the rear back on the car :



In reality not the last step at all - crazy enough to take it all apart again just to fit some black F103GT diff parts :



Final result (is it, really?) :

Dude, I think Tamiya should pay you to create step by step tutorials in the form of full color booklets. Because reading your thread makes me what one of those group C chassis, and I don't really like on road cars...

Awesome work, and shot for the parts...

Can't wait for the next batch of pictures...

Louisbaby wrote:

Dude, I think Tamiya should pay you to create step by step tutorials

If the payment were in parts, I could very well live with that.

Hope to post some live footage of the car soon in the form of a YouTube video...

For live images, it really has to stop raining here at some point...

But I did do another improvement on the car - shorter wiring and all the connections are now fitted with Deans.
I was dreading to cut off the original wiring from the ESC but it is a performance improvement :

With the wiring sorted I can say it's finished. Some work on the body is the only thing left to do :



It will get a cool light unit. Like a real Le Mans racer should :



Just have to figure out how to mount these... but when I do, I can turn them on and off with the third channel on my Tx!

Some more details about the build will soon follow...

Like I said before, RC porn. Looks really nice dude. can't wait for the track report.

Thanks again. Can't wait to give it a good test run.
Just had a tiny taste of driving so far but not with the shape it's in now.

Worst summer in years so not much on road opportunity lately.
But I'll give it a go as soon as I see the chance!

Fun detail : as seen on the picture, it weighs 828 grams. The more efficient wires saved another 7!
Next I'm adding another 42 with the light unit so I think I'll be forced to find more titanium...

Edou, My friend and I got his chassis running yesterday. Still need to tune in the chassis, but it looks good so far. Body must still be painted, so there is a little issue with the downforce...

Cool, so you guys drove it already!

Out of the 15 minutes I drove the C11 so far, about 10 were bodyless too...
Gotta make sure it goes straight and all.
After that the pinion got loose and I didn't have the right tool with me. Metal bonded it this time.
Didn't get to speeds where downforce is needed though - with a city full of speed bumps!
The weather forecast for the weekend looks promising...

How did your car handle?