TOPIC:

As I'm planning this build I better making a thread about it.

I put together all the parts I have for the Dyna Storm last week.







If it looks familiar, it's because this is the remains from the Dyna Storm build Lars did some years ago...


While it looks fairly complete it's missing a lot of parts.
# 9805816 brass bushings for the suspension arms.
# Upper topdeck.
# Shocks
# Steering bellcrank. Custom RC Parts make these and there is also 3d print ones available.
# The metal mechanism deck
# Front body post (I belive I do have this in my parts bin)
# Battery plate and 1 post, plate is easy to make.
# Front C-hubs H1+H2, Custom RC Parts make these and there is 3d printed ones out there as well.
# Missing all links. Easy to make from aftermarket parts.
# Missing wing stay, easy to make or buy aftermarket one etc.
# Missing all transmission parts except housing, internal gears and the.


Regarding the transmission I have toyed with the idea of using something different.
First one is using a Axial Scx10 V1 or some of the aftermarket ones.
These looks like a RC10 transmission and can be bought cheap from ebay complete. Injora is one of the brands.
Downside these comes with locked diff as the are intended for crawlers. Aka running a spool. One easy solution is to run Traxxas slider driveshafts as these as 5mm output.
These gearboxes uses 52t 48p diff.
Solution for real diff is either Kyosho UMW604 gear diff or UMW602 ball diff from the Ultima SC series like the Dirt Master.
And since RC10B4 uses also use 52t 48p ball diff, these can also be used. Need a lot of shims to take up the difference from Axial to RC10 as RC10 ones are a lot narrower.
The early B4 used SAE outdives so for those it needs to be converted using AE9852 outdrives which uses metric bearings like Kyosho and Axial.
I do have a early RC10B4 transmission and ball diff that needs rebuild but the AE9852 is not in stock most places.
And I have to either make new holes in the chassis plate for the Axial mounting pattern or make a adapter plate that using Dyna Storm and SCX10 bolt pattern.

Second option would be using a RC10 Stealth transmission and chassis plate drilled for this transmission. This is an expensive option.

Third option is what I'm likely going to do.
Sgt.Speirs on Tamiyaclub has developed several 3d printed transmissions for the Dyna Storm / Blaster.
This has the shape of the orginal transmission, used the reinforcement plate on the side and bolts directly onto the orginal chassis.
Is also using modern Tamiya internals.
First two usesd TD04 slipper clutch, but he has now developed a transmission that uses BBX 33 idler gear and BBX slipper clutch.
I'm going for the latter and I'm going to be one of the first customers that uses this transmission 
Not cheap, but it bolts directly to the chassis and has the look of the orginal transmission and it will take power from brushless with ease if I want to,

I have loads of yellow CVD shocks, both nib and old so I think I will use these first and maybe upgrade down the line. I do intend to drive this buggy.

Wheels are easy, I'm going for JC Racing as they make them with Tamiya, Kyosho and Yokomo design and these take modern 2.2" buggy tires.

For driveshaft I think I read that DT03 can be used. Not quote me on that.
Thankfully the orginal rear hubs have several mounting points for the pins so it can be moved in and out depending on the length on the driveshaft.

Not decided on electrics yet, but I think I want to run neon wires if I can get hold of them.
Want some of the 90s colors in it.

This will be a long term project and first thing will be the transmission. Designer have ordered the 3d printed housing and it will take 2-3 weeks before he gets it from the printing company.
I belive it's printed in PA12.
So it will take a month or so for it to arrive.

If anyone happens to own a Dyna Storm I would like to get the measurement from the front bolts to the rear bolt on the top deck so I can make one. As the lower chassis is flexing I don't trust to get a accurate reading to measure from.
Fibre-Lyte do make a topdeck and battery strap, but I'm not too keen on have them in carbon while the lower chassis is not.
Not sure if the make parts in G10 etc..

I love a good build thread especially on a car I know nothing about, so I’ll be following along Rich.
 

The suspension bushings is nowhere to be found online.

From what I found so far there is 2 solutions.
#1 3D printed suspension arms and pivot blocks from Vintagerunningspares.
#3 3D printed suspension arms and pivot blocks from ORV Racing.


From what I can find, all of those two alternatives remove the need for those bushings.

sqfab restored a dyna storm some years ago and designed with manobet aloy arms and other parts.  I think he puted some picts here. I had it in the hand and was the only one I had. And it's a really beautifull chassis. Almost so nice than a 88 avante. Can't wait to see your  crazy build Richard. 

Finally figured out how to take screenshots on my laptop....

Jim asked in the What did you today thread what is different with on this buggy contra others..

Well, Tamiya fitted a strange size busings to all suspension arms in both ends so it have a big gapping hole in arms or ends that holds the arm instead of normal 3mm hole like other buggies..

In front the bulkhead use those BM1 bushings in turn to fit the hingepin.
To mount it without those flangebushings you either need to get aftermarket bulkhead or 3d print ones. Super Astute one might fit...


And of course the outher end use them as well. Here in the arms themselves.


The rear pivot blocks also use them..
Custom RC Parts make these in aluminium with 3mm holes so no need for those bushes.
Vintagerunningspares make 3d print ones that also has 3mm hole.


Other end also use them.
The rear upright is the same as on Super Astute.


That's the reason you can't slap on other arms on this buggy if you're missing those busings.

My plan is to use these bits to overcome the missing bushes.
# Use Fan RC Super Astute delrin arms. These should fit and have 3mm hole in both ends.
# Use Super Astute front bulkhead if it fits, or use aftermarket for Dyna Storm.
# Use Xtra Speed Super Astute C-hubs (H1 + H2)
# Use Super Astute front uprights (BP5 + BP6)


Tomorrow we will look how similar of different those bits are on the Super Astute.

Compared to Super Astute...

The Super Astute bulkhead won't fit Dyna Storm, so need to use Dyna Storm fitment on a DS.


Super Astute arms should fit on DS.
Super Astute uprigh holders uses 730 bushings, the DS/Madcap is the same without these.
Upright is same on Super Astute and Dyna Storm.


Super Astute pivot blocks use 730 bushings and they also have a ridge that fit onto the SA chassis.
Dyna Storm pivot blocks should fit Super Astute arms.
Blitzer Beetle / Stadium Blitzer C tree has unused pivot blocks that fit onto the Astute chassis if any need replacement for the SA.


Again Super Astute arms should work on a Dyna Storm


And rear uprights are the same on Super Astute as Dyna Storm

 

For suspension arms I plan on using Fan RC Super Astute arms, these are made of delrin.
L&L Models in UK sells these
Very cost effective as the are cheaper than Tamiya Astute arms and probably stonger.
And they use 3mm hingepin in both ends.


Driveshaft will be Xtra Speed CVD for the Super Astute it shares the same upright as Dyna Storm.
Also converts to normal hex insted of spline hexes.
Had very good luck with Xtra Speed CVD on my ORV this summer so these should work great.


Since most of the turnbuckle lengths are the same on Super Astute and Dyna Storm I will use Yeah Racing turnbuckles for the Super Astute. These is stainless steel.


To go with the turnbuckles I'm going for these neon yellow rod ends from Yeah Racing. These are for 4.8mm ball studs and are 15mm long. There is also 13mm available. Yeah I want bright colors on this one!


Not sure on ball ands yet.
RCMart has a good selection of 4.8 ball studs.

Wheels will probably be these from JC Racing as I'm not a fan of the orginal Dyna Storm wheels.


For wing I want a agressive one and will probably keep it clear with stickers.

 

And here are the cost for the parts I really need for my build since I don't have the suspension bushings.

Custom RC Parts (machined alloy):        Vintagerunning spares (3d printed)    ORV Racing (3d printed)           Fan RC
Front bulkhead        £56.19                            £14.00                                                      €17.50 D5+D7
Rear pivot blocks    £30.71                            £10.00 1 or 2 degree anti sqt                   €17.50 D1+D2
Steering rack          £32.21                                                                                              €15.00 H3+H4
C-hubs                   £32.21                             £6.00 7.5 degree                                      €14.50 H1+H2
Rear Bulkhead                                                                                                                €15.00
Front arms DS                                              £22.00 Pair                                                €27.50 Pair                    £26.99 For all 4 arms SA
Rear arms DS                                               £28.00 Pair                                               €27.50 Pair
                                                                                                                                   or €50.00 All 4
D4 Gearbox mount £14.23


All these options above removes the need for the suspension bushes.

And I found a post that confirms Super Astute arms fit DS.
In this case he has fitted Xtra Speed Super Astute arms.
(1) Tamiya Dyna Storm/Blaster | Well next lot of pictures to show the progress | Facebook

Nice breakdown, thanks for the comparative data, now I wish they would rere the Dynastorm!