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Avante/Egress bellcrank fits.
Placement of ball studs for the tie rods are actually perfect the same distance as Dyna Storm hingepin placement. Needs about 5mm of spacer under the bellcrank to make it clear. Amount of throw is too small as the ballstud nut end hit the arm. Easy fix is to fabricate my own link plate and place the ballstud hole directly out from the center line of the ballcrank bolts and also need the middle section cut like the Avante one to clear the servo linkage to go clear. Orginal Ultima bellcrank barely clears due to the rod in the middle. A link plate should make it clear better. Bellcrank post tubes are too long to fit the upper deck. As the Factory Works bellcrank is lower it should clear fine. Plenty of throw with this bellcrank. As long the Factory Works bellcrank is not longer than the orginal Ultima bellcrank, it should fine clear. There is also enough material that the FW can be trimmed a little. |
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I just got a reply back from Factory Works regarding their bellcrank kits.
The plastic is the same on all kits, the only difference is the track bar and the hardware. And the track bar is a little shorter for the rere Ultima than for the vintage Ultima. Since JC Racing is the ones who make those bellcranks for Factory Works will buy it from JC Racing as I will use their wheels on this build. Not sure on tires yet, but must be 2.2 to fit JC Racing wheels... |
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Found a servo I can use and it also have only black/white wires which fits my color sheme for this build.
Also made a battery strap out of 1.6mm GRP plate (Kamtec sells these and also 2.4mm ones) This fits both the orginal battery post that I finally found the missing one, and also the Traxxas metal battery post. I may make the missing upper deck from the same 1.6mm GRP sheet. Just have to use gloves next time as this stuff made my hands itchy (fibreglass after all)... And I have figured out which shocks to use |
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Last edit: by caprinut.
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Today I modded my vintage Jamara esc by replacing the guts with a Hobbywing 1060 esc.
All I had to do was make room for the heat sink and grid off some support at the servo wire area and I removed the upper cover on the 1060. Wires will be changed. So color of the heat sink. Found the correct servo saver, 50473 which is the same as the black 51000 high torque unit. Had to look through all my parts bins to find the parts. after this photo I also found the front cover. Had to steal the 51000 springs from my speedrun Hornet to make it complete. Also found wing wire so wing could be mounted. Also found the perfect receiver to canibalize for this project as it has some damages and the receiver unit inside also did brown out badly when I tested it last time. Notice it has the same gold lettering as the esc. Had to mod the case a tiny bit to make it fit. Will find a small sticker of some sort to cover the damaged area. I'm going to fit a modern receiver inside this, probably Radiolink from Banggood as they cost about 6 quid each. Only other thing I can progress further on this without new parts is to make a esc stand and the upper deck that goes from battery tray to front bulkhead. Think that will be my weekend project. Been fatigue ill for over a month now so there is only so much I can do before I'm totally knackered. At least I enjoy to thinker with these things even being total kaput. |
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Last edit: by caprinut.
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Keep safe my friend. Sofa and capri sweets for the week-end.
The following user(s) Liked this: 1972 LeMansGT Jim, Scanox
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Lots of sanding later the upper deck is fitted.
Had to remove the gearbox to get the battery out so thing I'm going to swap that battery for the Gens Ace 2s 4900mah 120c battery I've been using for the speedruns. That uses 5mm bullets and will have a neather look in the end as well. Next is to make the esc mount with the same material as the upper deck. |
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Last edit: by stingray-63.
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Lovely work sqfab! Brilliant infact! And thank you very much, have a bit to go but I have a plan..... |
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