TOPIC:

Btw Flo, I've found out if you find 360 degree servos, they don't have that potmeter, so the board is ready to use a mini esc 
They also exist in micro servos, but many at all.

Thanks a lot my friend.

My tiny micro servos arrived today..
Wires are under halft the size of normal servo wires.


How small is it???
Well here is a normal M4 flange nut we all know so well..


Here compared to the one I bought last week..


Both vs a standard servo (Hitec 645)


Mounting tabs cut off.
Perfect size to just fit under the hood


Chassis got a visit of Mr.Dremel and then the servo slide right in


Servo glued in


Servo fits with minimal room to spare. Had to sand the rear part of hood are so body would sit on it.
Bumper also fits on 
Here it rest on the servo arm so it will live about 2mm off the ground. Thinking of making a Texas bumper as well to hide the servo arm looking from low angle


Testing clearances..


And started on front axle


Due to the servo tucks below center line of axle, I have to be creative.
Took a brass flat stock cut to triangle, bent it one each side to make room for the hubs.
Hubs is square stock drilled with 1.5mm for wheel axle which pokes through the hub and will be secured by 2.5x1.5 brass tube cut to a small ring and then glued on.
King pins is 1mm pianowire which holes is drilled directly through the wheelaxle hole then glued in from each side.
Hard bit will be to make the top part of axle which will join the lower part.
Also made a hole in lower beam so the splins will pass through.


Front axle is just a test right now to see if it works.
If it does I will make a nicer one, probably...
 

After a so tiny construction,  your next resto or built will be a big 1/4 scale rc...

Done a bit more on the front axle.
I might do the lower plate once more as it does not drop far enough on the sides to make the center meet upper and lower half.



 

Finally my front axle is complete and glued together.
Time for making the steering arms and draglink for the servo.

Front axle is not glued to the axle yet.
Making sure there is spacing to steer..


Imagne there is steering arms and a draglink above the servo arm..


Looks like this off the truck.
And I did make a new lower plate as mentioned in last post..


Outside to outside of tires is 28mm

Received another 1:87 Capri for my scale garage yesterday.

This time a black JPS from PCX87





Parked on the bench for now...

I suck at painting with a brush!!!

Still working on the Willy figure for the SCX ROD...
I knew I should not have added the border line on the belts. I'm not steady enough and my even the smallest brush makes a mess!




I removed the black border paint and repainted.
Only problem is that the paint comes out very glossy even with flat clear added. I know I really should buy more XF colors...


Gloves looks more like red candy than suede gloves.


I will try weather him a bit, but with colors being glossy inderneath I don't think it will turn out great.
And paint seems not dry even after 48 hours of drying time. Put on the flat clear was a nightmare as color started to come off and color being mixed.

I ordered some XF colors in case I can't stand how it's now.

And has also ordered more mini Tamiya boxes a week ago from Rob Edwards (ibiftkh) which should arrive shortly.

caprinut wrote:

I suck at painting with a brush!!!

...I knew I should not have added the border line on the belts. I'm not steady enough and my even the smallest brush makes a mess!


... Only problem is that the paint comes out very glossy even with flat clear added. I know I really should buy more XF colors...


... Gloves looks more like red candy than suede gloves.


... I will try weather him a bit, but with colors being glossy inderneath I don't think it will turn out great.
And paint seems not dry even after 48 hours of drying time. Put on the flat clear was a nightmare as color started to come off and color being mixed.

 

Persevere, after 45 years or so I can now paint a driver figure that looks ok at arms' length

Not sure how fine your finest brush is, for details I'd generally use a 000. I do have some 4/0, but either they're not good enough quality or I've reached my current limits & don't get any better results with them.

I think what I'm seeing with your belt shadows is a combination of the "wrong" colour (a drop of black in several of the uniform colour is less dramatic - but so are the "errors"), too much paint on the brush and too much pressure on it, and possibly the paint needed thinning a bit too (better to put a few drops in a tiny pot and add a drop of deionised water). Aiming for more coats will work better than trying to do it in one hit.

Painting really isn't about getting it perfect, and especially not about getting it perfect the first time, it's far more about how one rescues "faults" to make it look ok & that you planned it that way in the first place. For instance, instead of painting over the belt shadows - which involved painting up to line anyway - you could have aimed to cover over most of the shadow & leave a very fine line of the black.

At best Flat Clear with X paints is going to give you a satin finish, even then a 50:50 mix is going to leave you with a paint with less pigment in ... X-21 Flat Base will do too, but gives a flatter, more opaque result. Don't use it on it's own as a top coat though.

Curing time with the Tamiya Gloss/X paints is problematic I agree - what's they now refer to as a "hybrid" formulation is great for a glossy & quite durable finish, but it does come at the expense of remelting previous coats, and taking fingerprints for a couple of weeks too. Flat clear is very thin out of the jar & presumably quite "hot" with solvent too, I'm not surprised you had issues brushing over  with it. IDK what to suggest other than longer cure times, or airbrushing (if you're ready for it) light coats.

I think you mentioned Vallejo acrylics at some point? I've found them great in some ways - range of colours, less smell (not that the Tamiya stuff is particularly problematic), no remelt - but I've found them poor at doing shiny, even when airbrushed and you get the right clear the best I can get is a satin. They're also not very robust, I've found it'll wear right off Willy boots & gloves while you handle the body to paint other details. Another plus is that you can use them over tamiya paints - but absolutely NOT the over way round. Overall I think they're great for painting the faces, but would stick to XF paints for the bodies X for the helmets.

Keep on with it, if the worst happens you could always do tinted windows or get someone else to paint one. I don't plan to do any over the winter, the only "spare" ones I have are one in a US Air Cav inspired green uniform so probably won't be suitable, and a pair of drivers with the head & hands from the "Multipurpose" figure - you could have one of them for a token about postage as trying to sell them reiterated that RC is pretty much 100% sausage fest and the only acceptable alternatives are A) even wilder than standard or unfeasibly pneumatic