TOPIC:

Thanks everyone. This place is so much friendly. I like it.

I didn't know brushless are that much powerful!
I am a little concerned now.

I already made some research to improve everything in the transmission.

What do you think about this item ?

It is a little expensive, relatively to the tamiya one. But now I spent money on a brushless I can't be cheap on other part.

Welcome, BraindeadBZH. That really is a lovely Dirt Thrasher.
Like waterbok said, you don't see too many of these in good condition.
The body is possibly the rarest of the DF-01s... maybe you could consider running the car with a TBG shell.
If you need to make some home made decals, I could scan them for you.



Ah yes, upgrading a DF-01. That can be addictive (and seemingly neverending).
A brushless is indeed on the edge of the car's capabilities but with a good setup a 12T should be possible.
I'd choose the Tamiya universals over the GPMs myself. Not that sure about the quality of the "plastic" joints on the latter...
But I think GPM makes an all metal version too?
You can also go for universals from a later era, even with titanium wheel axles but that's mucho $...
Hardened dogbones and wheel axles is a good alternative though.

If you're gonna run that brushless, I would also make a reinforement for the rear gearbox, such as this one :



That kind of motor power will certainly reveal that weak spot.

Great project! I'll be following it.

Welcome on board, BraindeadBZH

I think just about everything I'd be thinking of has already been mentioned (gearing, bearings, alloy motor mount, driveshafts & cups, old plastic, etc)... the only thing I'd really add is rebuilding the shocks is worth considering, oil & seals degrade over time & are pretty cheap.

I don't think 12T brushless is that extreme, certainly not like putting a 5.5T in an old car , brushless numbers don't seem to be directly analogous to brushed motor numbers, I'd guess a 12T brushless would be more equivalent to a good 17T brushed motor ...
... but that & the Lipo sticks will make it go like a squirrel with a rocket up its bottom


I see the programming card has a "punch" setting (which controls how rapidly the motor will accellerate), I'd think about dialling that down to minimum for a slightly softer start. Don't think of it as "wuss mode", think of it more like traction control - less wheelspin & protecting the drivetrain. I see the card has 6 settings, IDK what it says in the manual, but I'd guess the settings equate to:

0 - POWAH!!!!!!
1 - Extreme
2 - Brutal
3 - Savage
4 - Oh Lordy
5 - Weesa gonna die

Edou wrote:

Welcome, BraindeadBZH. That really is a lovely Dirt Thrasher.
Like waterbok said, you don't see too many of these in good condition.
The body is possibly the rarest of the DF-01s... maybe you could consider running the car with a TBG shell.
If you need to make some home made decals, I could scan them for you.

Thanks Edou. I took a lot of information and ideas from your MR customization!
I will consider this option to preserve the original body. But it is not my top priority.

Edou wrote:

Ah yes, upgrading a DF-01. That can be addictive (and seemingly neverending).

I see that. I don't how many hours I have already spent looking for parts!
But that's OK. I like that. I have planned to do it incrementally in any case. Buying some parts every month depending on the budget.

Edou wrote:

A brushless is indeed on the edge of the car's capabilities but with a good setup a 12T should be possible.
I'd choose the Tamiya universals over the GPMs myself. Not that sure about the quality of the "plastic" joints on the latter...
But I think GPM makes an all metal version too?
You can also go for universals from a later era, even with titanium wheel axles but that's mucho $...
Hardened dogbones and wheel axles is a good alternative though.

The one I found here seems all in hard steel. And I like the fact this is a "fixed" cup. It should reduce the friction.

Edou wrote:

If you're gonna run that brushless, I would also make a reinforement for the rear gearbox, such as this one :

That kind of motor power will certainly reveal that weak spot.

I will keep an eye on this.

Edou wrote:

Great project! I'll be following it.

Cool!


I have made a list of parts I plan to buy.

Jonny wrote:

Welcome on board, BraindeadBZH

Thanks.

Jonny wrote:

I think just about everything I'd be thinking of has already been mentioned (gearing, bearings, alloy motor mount, driveshafts & cups, old plastic, etc)... the only thing I'd really add is rebuilding the shocks is worth considering, oil & seals degrade over time & are pretty cheap.

I already planned to buy new one like this .
I also ordered the towers from here . I took them in CSC. I think it should be sufficient. They should arrive soon. The original ones are cracked at the screw holes.

Jonny wrote:

I don't think 12T brushless is that extreme, certainly not like putting a 5.5T in an old car , brushless numbers don't seem to be directly analogous to brushed motor numbers, I'd guess a 12T brushless would be more equivalent to a good 17T brushed motor ...
... but that & the Lipo sticks will make it go like a squirrel with a rocket up its bottom

I hope so! I am so excited because I always wanted to made some upgrades to this car when I was a child. But I did not have the money. And Internet was not as developed too.

Jonny wrote:

I see the programming card has a "punch" setting (which controls how rapidly the motor will accellerate), I'd think about dialling that down to minimum for a slightly softer start. Don't think of it as "wuss mode", think of it more like traction control - less wheelspin & protecting the drivetrain. I see the card has 6 settings, IDK what it says in the manual, but I'd guess the settings equate to:

0 - POWAH!!!!!!
1 - Extreme
2 - Brutal
3 - Savage
4 - Oh Lordy
5 - Weesa gonna die

They are not so optimistic with there motor.

1. High: Very limited acceleration. Good for 2WD vehicles.
2. Medium: Medium acceleration limiting.
3. Low: Light acceleration limiting. Good for 4WD vehicles on soft dirt.
4. Lowest: Very light acceleration limiting. Good for most situation.
5. Disable: Acceleration is only limited by battery ability. This setting is good for 4WD on high traction drag racing
6. For some reason there is only 5 values in the manual...

But this is a good idea. I will set the punch control to the max. At least until I customize completely the transmission. Than I will reduce it progressively.

nice list, very impressive.

if you go for the fibre shockmounts you will need one of the J parts from the TF for the front.
(me or edou might have one lying around)

if you are still looking for all the parts in the end it might be cheaper if you start hunting for a nice TopForce.

Went through the spare department and made you all a nice picture to get the saliva running



there is one part on it that you won't need for brushless setup, that the balldiff bearing, for brushless I would stick with the geardiffs.

upleft is the newer reinforced MR shocktower, next is the J mounting part for the Fibre mount.

did you order the 100mm? that might be a bit tight, front has 82 and rear 92

That is a nice spare collection.

I also found the stainless steal propeller shaft here . But it is kinda pricy. I will put an alloy one first. And I will see how it handle the brushless.

I didn't order any shocks at the moment. The original ones are still usable for some test runs on the street. They are 90mm for the front and 100mm for the rear.

CTY300 yeah them and there prices, forget them, they think everything tamiya is rare and collectible.
You will find most parts for good prices at, Seidel/Tamico in germany or ebayshops Jason, victor101 and such.

Ok. Thank you for the advice.