TOPIC:

Very nice. I will try this as soon as I get the replacement part. Thanks for the tip.

Tapping the thread before you put the screws in could relieve some of the stress on the plastic too.

I see. Maybe slightly enlarge the holes could help too. We don't need the screws to tap in the plastic. As we use nuts.

I'm very surprised they didn't not reinforce this part. The front is well done with the additional plastic part.

Design of the top cover of the rear gearbox isn't great.
Besides the piece where the tower mounts, two of the three holes to keep the lid down are quite vulnerable.
At the spot where I've placed the bracket on the earlier image, the idler gear tends to push up and deform the plastic.
So that would be another good adjustment, especially with a motor that's got some punch.
Placing that extra nut for the shock tower also helps a bit in this respect.

Tapped up to 3mm, enlarging the holes shouldn't be necessary.
There will only be room on one side for the additional nut (unless you can find a particularly flat one)...
As long as it's a clean fit without the screw putting extra strain on the hole itself, not enlarging would be more stable I think.
The rosette washers are extra wide, also helping spread the surface tension.

I think I've seen some other interesting mods on the web as well.

Yes you right. I found this . I think I will try this too, plus the nut. The guy also say that the red gearboxes are thicker. I don't know if it is true.

I remember, you already told me about this weakness where you put a bracket. At the moment it is OK. Maybe with the red gearbox, it could be better.

Nowadays you can go for blue gearboxes as well - they're still produced on the TA02Ts.
Dunno about the plastic quality but I would imagine the blue ones should be best in that case.



That car on TC's got some cool hop ups btw.

Your logic seem good . Lets go for the blue.
Yes this guy I've made a really nice build.
His solution for the rear tower is really good. But I have a problem with it because I use the Fibre-Lyte one. Which has a big hole in the middle.

I think the setup with the connecting rod works best as extra protection against rollovers.
For a solid fit of the tower itself, the earlier mods should suffice.

Ok. I see. Thanks again for those useful tips.

Oh yeah! I've already put two longer screws and one with a nut. And even with the broken plastic it is a lot stiffer.

I've also noticed that when I start at full throttle the car does not go straight. I think it might came from the diffs. It seems that I have a wheel which spin faster than the other, at the rear at least. I don't know if going to ball-diff can be a good option.

By the way. What kind of maintenance do you make after a run with your DF01?