TOPIC:

BlacqueJacque wrote:

Ranger1 wrote:

435 sets are ok.

But it's the ACOMS 427 and the receiver that count. Acoms Receiver has to be 427 as well..

Rare as hens teeth.!


We all say that at some point...Given..

 

I wouldn't say that, I had the choice of 3 concurrently when I picked this one up, I seem to have misplaced the TX for the moment


 

Ranger1 wrote:

BlacqueJacque wrote:

Ranger1 wrote:

435 sets are ok.

But it's the ACOMS 427 and the receiver that count. Acoms Receiver has to be 427 as well..

Rare as hens teeth.!


We all say that at some point...Given..

 

I wouldn't say that, I had the choice of 3 concurrently when I picked this one up, I seem to have misplaced the TX for the moment



Ok

 

What we need to think about is the YOUNGER generation of RC enthusiasts.

They LIKE Instant...Total Control.

Not something that might work if you point an Ariel towards it.

Todays kids aren't like US older guys.

Point and Shoot is what they like.

That's why i have gone for the 2.4Ghz stuff (As an OPTION..)

Think about the future of RC?





 

I restored several rc for me and for friends. Almost didn't ran , I'm reducing my collection but I  kept some oldies to run. But I  passed to the dark side with a  Aliexpress mn82  and a future mn78.... ( it should arrive next week).  And honnestly for my run grounds the mn are enough. And my grandson love the 82. And now, I charge correctly the home made stick with the imax b6 (  still thanks to jonny for the charger advices)

Cleaning the chassis parts took longer than expected as I wasn't able to combining it with watching the "new" Dune movies as my desktop pc only has a DVDRW and my new laptop doesn't have an optical drive at all.

I could critique Dune & part 2 at length, but IMO while they do look somewhat better than previous versions and avoid some of their flaws, they introduce a lot of new ones, some of which are pretty jarring. For all it's run time, I don't think it really adds anything to David Lynch's Dune, and can't show as much development as the Sci-Fi channels Dune miniseries. 

Body & wheels have been sprayed in VW Alpine white & I've started on reassembling the chassis. The bent top gearbox backplate flattened out really easily, I was expecting to have to do an amount of hammering, or at least persuasion with a rubber mallet, but with one end supported in a bench vice, I was able to straighten it with minimal thumb pressure, and when I say minimal, I mean I question whether I needed the vice at all & think I could have done it all with bare hands. 

It really shouldn't be that soft to start with, and you'd expect it to harden with age. Previously, I'd questioned how it could have bent with what looked to have been a very light knock at worst, I can only think it's the wrong grade/alloy. I know I have a spare, but IDK if it's the correct one.







I have some other Willies to work on in future, but in the interests of not having go much on the go at once, all I'll be doing at the moment is repainting drivers. They'll get a bath in caustic soda before reassembly/filler etc so I can prime them in anticipation of painting them over the winter.

Another two days and this is as far as I've got ... 

 

The problem was the top (or reduction) gearbox - everything is correct (18T pinion, backplate vary between models but the idler, "clutch", bearings (and I swapped in the original bronze ones too), and cover are the same, motor & idler shaft are straight) but each time I assembled it, it would bind up.

It was fine with just the two lower screws done up, but the closer the top one is to being properly nipped up, the tighter the gear mesh becomes. It's not an issue with the screws being too long, I also tried with washers. It's almost as if the top hole in the backplate is in the wrong place - and the damage on the surface of the plate between 3 and 6 o clock from repeated attempts at assembly tends to confirm that.

With all 3 screws done up but the reduction box off the car, the mesh between the idler and clutch is perfect. Everything points to the mesh between the pinion and the idler being the problem. 

The "fix" was to apply as much downward (as fitted on the car) force to the cover (to increase the gap between motor shaft and idler shaft) and hold it while doing up the screws. You expect this kind of nonsense with post war British cars and bikes, but I've never had any Tamiya need fiddling like that. 

 

 

 

Glad you sorted it. I wonder if opening each hole a smidge may have also gotten you the fiddle room you needed......

With all due respect to Jonny, bending the gearbox plate back to shape by hand is most likely the misalignment cause. As he intimated, Tamiya parts fit is usually immaculate.

In my experience, Tamiya alloy plate parts of that era are lightweight & easily manipulated but as with any machine formed part, bending by hand will introduce errors due to the forming dies not being present to constrain the bend.

1972 wrote:

Glad you sorted it. I wonder if opening each hole a smidge may have also gotten you the fiddle room you needed......
 

Could be There's not a lot of meat around the holes though, and I broke part of one of the lower ones just by repeated assembly

Agreed, I have lived that one many times myself. LOL