TOPIC:

Where did you get those titans? Got a link and price?
I'm actually don't know if there is any titan screw at the original tf screw bags.

PS: Edou, Think! Stay focused! Do not let your mind wander!

TF screw bags = no titan $
TF evo screw bags = titan $

Yep, mucho dollar for Evo titan.
These Kyoshos were very reasonably priced actually :

stores.ebay.nl/...634.c0.m14

Every next bag is 0,50 dollar extra shipping cost. Not too shabby either.

Sorry about the Dutch eBay link...

Nice find, lot cheaper than the Ts and with philips heads.

I know M3 sockets are quite small & titanium is softer than 16.9 steel, but surely there's nothing on a toy car that would require so much force as to be ripping the heads out? Have you checked the hex key is a good fit?

Is the titanium quest a bling thing or are we weight saving?
If we're weight saving, anodised aluminium fasteners would be a lot lighter than titanium & I would've thought strong enough for anything toy car related (M3 might be difficult to source though). Stainless would be stronger & cheaper than titanium & isn't that much heavier at 3mm

It's a bling thing mostly.
The depth of the hex itself on most titanium screw heads just isn't enough... they're damaged really easily.
I've only killed a few beyond any further use but many I've screwed in once immediately show (obvious) signs of wear.
Even when using a perfectly matching Hudy hex driver.

Edou wrote:

It's a bling thing mostly.
The depth of the hex itself on most titanium screw heads just isn't enough... they're damaged really easily.
I've only killed a few beyond any further use but many I've screwed in once immediately show (obvious) signs of wear.
Even when using a perfectly matching Hudy hex driver.

You say "Hudy" like it's a great brand ... visually, the business end looks no different from the other bling RC tools I've been scathing about in the past. Metallurgy by eye is always suspect, but to me it looks like the money has gone on the name & the blingy cast & machined handle - I'm very suspicious of anything with a bare metal coloured tip.

I can't help thinking you'd be better off with something else - Wera tools for example, they cost less & may have a plastic handle, but you can immmeditely see the material used for the shaft tip is better - and the money has gone on correct heat treatment of the tip.




I'm getting a sense I've said all this before - it's deja vu all over again

I got a Hudy with a plastic handle myself.
Have another hex driver (different brand) with a blingish aluminium handle and a not so great HSS steel tip...
Material of the Hudy seems tough but brittle (often heard they can suddenly break).


Hudy...


Not so Hudy...

By the way, it's mostly the countersunk titanium hex heads that are vulnerable.
Those with button type heads seem to stay alive a lot longer...

The plot thickens....
Countersunk & button socket screws have only shallow sockets anyway, even 16.9 steel versions will strip if they're really tight. Stainless ones are soft as cheese & don't really fit metric keys very well (I often use the closest imperial key if it's tighter fitting than a metric one, to avoid damaging the head).
Those 1/4" hex bits just don't fit anything properly, don't use them.

I've worked with titanium recently, & it really isn't that fantastic - it's a lot heavier than aluminium (Slightly lighter than stainless), bends more easily than stainless (Slightly less than ally), similar resistance to cutting as stainless, but wears tool tips quickly. I also guess it doesn't harden up too well either (Like stainless), making it hot & cool whilst machining did less work hardening than if the components had been stainless.

Right, keys....
I've never used blingy RC tools, I suspect the cost is in the bling & name rather than actual quality. I tend to spend half the money & get well known quality tooling.
Keys usually only break if the hardening/tempering process has been cocked up (Tempering gives the tool some springiness so it doesn't snap/shatter). You often see this with Chinese tools - they're either soft as cheese or explode when you put force behind them.
Never heard of HSS allen keys, that might be why they're prone to snapping (Think what happens if you try to bend a drill bit).

It really wouldn't surprise me if a lot of the problems with stripped hex sockets are caused by a driver that's too long anyway - when distance from the fastener to the handle of these tools is so long, the sideways leverage at the fastener head is comparatively large, even if it feels like you're driving the tool in-line, it probably isn't.
Certainly the wrist movement turning the handle isn't perpendicular to the fastener's axis & whilst turning the handle you're actually wringing the socket head out.

Try some "proper" right-angled allen keys & see how you get on with them - use the long bit for spinning the fasteners quickly, use the short bit for tightening/loosening.
I personally prefer the "Ball ended" type as they're good for getting into tight spaces (Cos you can use the long bit at an angle to spin the fastener, then revert to the short bit for loosening/tightening). Don't use the ball-end for loosening/tightening, that will strip the hex sockets in no time (Probably first time)