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That's a good point about the deviating angle, I'll keep it in mind.
Once I snuffed a few and later discovered it was because I was holding the car horizontally.
That created (pulling) tension, making it much harder to untighten them and thus sending them to titan screw Walhalla...



Besides the titanium being for bling, it is to bring the car closer to TF Evo spec as well.
But I've put so many new parts on it that I think it will never leave the shelf now...
Still have the other DF-01 to drive the badword out off though.

I like statements like that, it's nice to here people are still actually using their cars in the proper manner!

I always like to build 'em to be driven (hence all the hop ups)...
The FRP car will have to be the exception.
Even though I suspect it would go quite awesomely.



Anyway, I just noticed (while sorting out old stock titanium) that most of the screws with hex heads are pretty magnetic!
That's not a characteristic this material should have...
Older Phillips heads seem to not be affected.

Are you sure trhat your screws are in titanium??? Only steel is magnetic. Maybe your screws are only"lightly anodized" with titanium like yellow screwdrivers?

Edou wrote:

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Anyway, I just noticed (while sorting out old stock titanium) that most of the screws with hex heads are pretty magnetic!
That's not a characteristic this material should have...
Older Phillips heads seem to not be affected.

I wouldn't have thought the titanium used for RC fasteners would be particularly pure - but iron is a legitimate element in many titanium alloys, up to about 1.5% anyway - how strong is the magnet you're using?
If it's "not very" I'd guess your magnetic "titanium" screws are either steel with a bit of titanium in the alloy, or they're steel with a titanium nitride coating ...

Either way, I wouldn't think you've been ripped off, most of the cost in weeny fasteners is in the manufacturing & getting the bits to you - material cost is not that big a component.

If you were really trying to save a couple of grams on the weight of the car though, it could be a problem

It's not a big deal but I happened to notice...
The magnet I was using is a tiny one at the end of a hobby knife.
Next... volume-weight calculation to determine the exact composition (kidding of course).
Fasteners are all Tamiya by the way.

I saw a docu once on how they mine this stuff.
Filtering it from huge amounts of soil... pretty labour intensive.



Edit - Discovery Channel naturally...

Not hugely up on what materials are magnetic, obviously steel/iron is, nickle, tin & some forms of stainless (311?) are too.. The titanium bar I've got here isn't magnetic in any way.

It might be you've got screws coated with nickle, or they're magnetic stainless, you'd be hard pushed to tell - at M3 a handful of stainless & a handful of titanium are barely different weight-wise & look almost identical (Titanium is everso slightly darker).

I don't know if it's still the case, but titanium cap screws USED to be semi cone shaped (So eg you didn't put your nuclear reactor together with stainless by mistake).

I'll go back to suggesting anodised aluminium fasteners again, it's obvious what they are & they're much lighter than titanium

Most titanium finds its way through life as titanium dioxide (White pigment) by the way.
Often do work for Huntsman Tioxide...

A titanium atom going through life as pigment is way less cool than being part of a Blackbird.
There's no sane reasoning behind the FRP build... just putting it together with the highest drool factor for myself.
Gonna be much more practical on the Humvee.

Speaking of which... I can go ahead a bit with that one while I'm waiting on bits.
Received a few cheapo (0,40 eurocents) Chinese rubber sealed ball bearings so I didn't have to cannabalise another car.
And I've been contemplating on going for a better motor than a silvercan from the start...
Thinking a Tamiya CR-Tuned might be a nice match.
Lots of torque to go off road and a (calculated, see page 11) top speed that doesn't hit over 20 km/h.
Can't get much closer than that to give the car some genuine Humvee specs.

The CRtuned is nice but you can get cheaper crawler motors if your thinking of running it at max most of the time (rc4wd has several 'low' speeds ranging from 30T to 80T)