TOPIC:

one more



think the j12 was hex at the bottom because it was harder to get the screw into the plastic.

Makes sense....
No thought as to how to get them out again when they're stuck in the smooth mounts though!
(Had a semi-issue with that on my Astute).
I prefer the look of the curvy bits though, adds some refinement

I dug out some of my old school books (mechanical engineering/werktuigbouwkunde)

So fitting a bearing on BM1

the advised tolerance (in µm) on a small diameter axial bearing axle would be j6(+7,-1) but in our case a h6(0,-8) or even f7(-10,-22) would be more practical. (1µm=0.001mm)

latest corrections

Yes because you normally aim for a bearing to be the best fit it can be without distorting the inner race, which requires a press & fine surface finishing of the shaft. You'd usually only bother doing this with posh high tolerance or heavily loaded bearings though (To maintain concentricity & reduce risk of deformation under load)

We're working with machined-only ally & the bearings are to be loose enough fitting that they can be put on (Or removed) by hand. 0.02mm & below are generally accepted as grinding tolerances for production manufacture.
You can specifically cut 0.01 on a really good unworn lathe (Or with lots of patience), but for close tolerance (Micron) stuff it's usually a case of grab the wet-n-dry & go by feel. Been there, done that, machining at the point where the the part won't fit, you tickle it & it will, yet the calipers still read the same number (So you're removing less than 0.01mm).

Needless to say, I won't be going quite that mental doing these! 0.02-0.05 clear will be fine.

Impressed you know about number/letter fits - any drawings at work with that kind of annotation usually get handed to me by blank-looking draughtsmen! Have a look at surface finish & welding symbology too, those are others that have the draughties baffled!

thanks

yep was thinking of adding some of those hook things with a Rx something to the mounts drawing but then thought better leave it as is

sorry the mounts they were hand made using lathe a guy done them i got 5 sets done 50.00 cheap just get me out off truble they work fine. i have been quoted 74.00 for the full set + j12 part 1 set only done by a machine so they will be perfect, they just cost to much to do small quantities. i can get them done at a cost ill have to get couple of 100 of each but its the money side.

The sets on Tamiyaclub that you had made seemed to be popular enough, regardless of the imperfections.
I'm just hoping eddrick gets into the swing of fabricating these ones (and still has time to eat and see some daylight)...
Getting quite excited about the idea of building another FRP car.

i hope that they are not going to be expensive tomorrow i`m off to see a guy that jet cut`s with water with my top force evo carbon chassis to see how much he do them for. i see there`s a top force evo carbon chassis on ebay that will go for alot off money i think

Do you know these guys (gotta click a little forward on the RC car image)?

www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/



You'll have a price comparison at least.

Eddrick, I'm gonna throw these (suspension shafts - an unrelated parts bag) in the mix.
Would they be hard to make?