TOPIC:

Just had a look through my Cheetah manual to investigate the possibility of coming up with a rolling chassis out of those bits (Couldn't help myself!), & it appears the only bits missing that would cause me problems are E6, E11,E15 (Rear suspension bits) W6 (gear) & G2 (Gearbox cover, yey). The rest I'm pretty sure could easily be made (The missing bits too, but not sure I could get enthusiastic about that). Gonna have a wander about on the net to find out what the chassis is similar to/based on (For ideas of what body could be suited to it).
What sort of money are we talking about for the lot?

eddrick wrote:

Just had a look through my Cheetah manual to investigate the possibility of coming up with a rolling chassis out of those bits (Couldn't help myself!), & it appears the only bits missing that would cause me problems are E6, E11,E15 (Rear suspension bits) W6 (gear) & G2 (Gearbox cover, yey). The rest I'm pretty sure could easily be made (The missing bits too, but not sure I could get enthusiastic about that). Gonna have a wander about on the net to find out what the chassis is similar to/based on (For ideas of what body could be suited to it).
What sort of money are we talking about for the lot?

How does a tenner grab you?

I should point out all the bits (apart from a couple of bits I mentioned) all all used, but serviceable AFAIK

Cool, ok, I'll be able to lay in it all & writhe about if nothing else...
Any idea of P+P on that? PM me a Paypal address

eddrick wrote:

Cool, ok, I'll be able to lay in it all & writhe about if nothing else...
Any idea of P+P on that? PM me a Paypal address

Postage still

Jonny wrote:

Motor is now squeaky clean

...

Forgive my ignorance, but are you taking the mickey or is that the recommended way to clean a motor? I always thought electricity and water don't mix well

Martin wrote:

Jonny wrote:

...
Forgive my ignorance, but are you taking the mickey or is that the recommended way to clean a motor? I always thought electricity and water don't mix well

Water is not as big an enemy of electrics/electronics as people think - in operation it's not the water that causes short circuits, its the impurities in it. Corrosion is a problem only if you leave things wet ...

So no, I'm not taking the smeg - off the top I my head I can think of 3 occasions when water & RC electrics mix very helpfully:

1- cleaning motors: put clean hot water & lots of washing up detergent in ultrasonic tank & run for several cycles, adding more detergent if it no longer feels very soapy, or change the water if it gets mucky ... rinse motor thoroughly in clean water, blow out, dry thoroughly & re-oil bearings.

2 - running in new motors: attach to low(er) voltage DC source (like 3v from a pari of D cells in series), dunk in glass of clean water for 30 seconds or so or less if there's evidence of debris from the brushes. Uncouple from voltage, blow out, dry thoroughly & oil the bearings. This beds in the comm & brushes to yield fractionally more power (important in racing classes restricted to silvercan motors) & is a well recognised process, known as "Water Dipping".

3 - Recievers & ESCs that have stopped working due to getting wet: rinse thoroughly, blow out & then leave somewhere warm to dry out completely before using again.

Check it out (but mind the volume) :

Interesting. I had heard of running motors in in water, but not cleaning them.
If one did not own an ultrasonic cleaner, would it be helpful to run a motor for a short while in the soapy water to clean it?

Martin wrote:

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If one did not own an ultrasonic cleaner, would it be helpful to run a motor for a short while in the soapy water to clean it?

I can't see it

Only things to watch mixing motors with water are:
1) Bronze bearings are designed/made to act like a sponge to hold oil. If you wash the oil out & fill the "sponge" with water, you won't fit any more oil in. So, it's a good idea to saturate the bearings with oil before getting water in there, & try to avoid strong detergents or solvents that could wash the oil out.
It's possible to re-saturate dry bearings by heating them up in an oil bath, but this might be awkward if they're permanently fitted to something like a motor.

2) Brush wear is relatively fast when running under water, probably due to arcing & the continual washing-away of the lubricative graphite/carbon (The accelerated wear is the main reason you run-in a motor under water, to get the brushes to fully contact the comm, ie for maximum current transfer & timing correction, as quickly as possible).

I personally clean motors out by dismantling (Where possible) & washing out in diesel, avoiding the bearings (Not a major issue if they get damp with it as diesel is a light oil anyway). Then a blow-out with compressed air & re-assemble.
Don't use strong solvents (Petrol, thinners, acetone etc) as it can attack/dissolve the enamelling on the windings of cheaper motors (I'll lay money Annsmann fall into that category!), not to mention, have the oil out of the bearings