TOPIC:

agemax wrote:

cheers Jonny, yeah i can just about make out 472 on it. does it really need one on each connection?

I would say yes - the idea is to suppress radio noise caused by the brushes moving on & off the comm segments ... you may not care about the possible interference with radios & TVs, etc, but it'll also interfere with the radio gear you're using to contol the car ...

Jonny wrote:

agemax wrote:

it is all for the 2nd build car with no electrickery fitted. so if i can get one of those RX's you mention and a Mitroniks ESC it will work fine?
its my birthday in february so wifey said she would get me a Mitronics ESC

I'm really lost now ... to make it clear what I'm sending you, these are photos of identical kit:

Acoms AS-17 Servo: screws to chassis, connects to steering servo saver via light blue splined bit, connects to RX "ch.1" pins via 3 pin connector:

Tamiya TEU101BK ESC:

... which has the following connectors/doodads:

On/Off Switch: switches unit on/off + also the power to the JST/BEC connector, and therefore power to the RX;

JST/BEC Connector: this is the bit that's different to Mtroniks ESCs - on those, power to the RX is supplied via the Control cable, but on Tamiya ESCs, this extra cable connects to the RX "Batt" pins... it's an unregulated output, meaning whatever voltage main drive battery you have, that's the voltage that will be send down this cable - and that can be a problem as an RX without the letters "BEC" on the label will be expecting 4.8 to 6.0 v maxiumum, a "7.2" battery (which can be delivering 8.5v fresh off the charger) is too much;

Control Cable: connects to RX "Ch. 2" pins;

Bullet Connectors: Connects to Motor;

Battery Connector: this is an Anderson "Power Pole" connector, I've also included one of these and a regular Tamiya battery connector so you can make an adaptor or just replace it;



So, to be extra clear - you don't need the 4x AA battery holder, you don't need another another ESC, what you need is an RX with the magic letters "BEC" on it

does anyone know if i can remove these battery connectors or do i simply cut the cables? i want to fit the tamiya connector mr Retro kindly supplied

The wires look a little short to be cut but I'm not sure how to open these connectors myself...

You can just cut the wires and resolder the new plug on, But just get the polarity right or else "BANG" and smoke...

Here is how to set the Tamiya speed control:

LB is right of course. The cutting and rewiring itself shouldn't be a problem.

Edou wrote:

The wires look a little short to be cut but I'm not sure how to open these connectors myself...

I just meant to say that it would be nice to be able to open the connectors so you have a bit more wire length.
Soldering shouldn't have to be a necessity with a Tamiya plug btw.
I always do anyway for the sake of solidity...

Seems like a backward step to me - I know people don't get in a mastabatory frenzy about Power Poles the way they do about Deans connectors, but anyway ...

I don't think you can separate the connector from the housing on Powerpoles - at least I've never managed it ... I do try to solder as well as crimp connectors, but TBH I can't remember if I would have soldered them on that ESC or not, if I didn't, a good yank ought to make the crimp fail; if I did solder them you might well break the connection to the ESC instead ...

I think you're better off sawing through the connector housing 3/5ths of the way along where there's a 1/2 round channel moulded in

i want to change it to a tamiya fitting as my other hopper has one and my boat and my hovercraft, i have 5 or 6 batteries at my disposal so it would make sense to have the same connectors on everything

Sounds like that would be easiest. Jonny's suggested approach would give you the most wire length.
Guess they're not recycable.

Tamiya connectors don't have the best rep with higher currents but that shouldn't be a problem here.
I decided last year to change everything to Deans. The batteries as well as a new Lrp Esc...
That was a good soldering exercise.

weighed the rear hornet gearbox rod mount, as accurately as i can, standard steel rod is 9g, new ali rod is 4.5g. so exactly half the weight. may not make too much of a difference but it all adds up in the cause of weight saving performance.

I think it's a pretty cool hop up.
Took the motor off my Group C and it feels like it weighs almost nothing with all the bits of saving here and there.
Could even imagine a custom carbon or fiber glass filled hollow carbon axle...