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That's brilliant dude, you should take it to an engineer and see if he can machine the inside to take 1050 bearings. (10mm outside 5mm inside)
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i am planning to soon, but im also looking into some linear bearings that have a smaller o/d and run the length of the hex.
also, can someone please confirm this is the correct pinion i need to fit on the motor? www.ebay.co.uk/..._500wt_835 |
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Last edit: by agemax.
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i found these on ebay, only 8mm o/d. that would leave more "meat" in the brass hex's. what do you think? www.ebay.co.uk/..._624wt_821 |
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Last edit: by agemax.
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Should work but they might be more vulnerable since there are smaller balls in them than with the usual 1050s.
I see 950 bearings also exist... they are a bit wider too which divides the pressure more. Just a small tech-brainstorm. |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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ah but i have thought of that tech brainstorm already......the front hex's are 7mm wide, the bearings are 2.5mm wide, so 2 bearings will fit in each hex, spreading the load evenly. i think it would be ok or as you say, these may be better, www.ebay.co.uk/..._792wt_821 |
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Last edit: by agemax. Reason: link added
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Putting in a bearing on both sides is definitely a good idea.
If there's enough meat on the hex, I'd still choose the dual setup with the 950s though... Of course if you use the smaller bearings, it's easy to see if they're still functional. And if they're not you could always replace them. Very cool and original mod in any case! Edit - advantage of the smaller bearings is that it would be easier to keep some material in the middle of the hex... |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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i have gone for the smaller bearings, more meat on the hex plus i could actually fit 3 bearings in each hex, 3 x 2.5 = 7.5, = 0.25 mm each end of the hex. wheel nut will clamp on to the inner race of the bearing.
that means i could even turn down the visible part of the hex to make it round, but still have the hex in the wheel. but now im thinking about the extra weight on the front axles. uprights |
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