TOPIC:

Also fixed the front bumper running lights as the 1x3 tile don`t exist in translucent orange.



And my vision on how it will look with lights on

Wonder.... Do black grille look better?

Complete truck.
Still a few things I will improve.

Finally finished both 5th wheel and the tow end on trailer.
Towball plate on trailer is now moved up 2 plates and it also has a complete redesign and should be a lot stronger now.
4262 technic plate with toothed end was in the end installed at 135 degree to get the 5th wheel as low as possible.
Drive axles on the truck is also modified. Gone is the two short axles and instead replaced by 10l technic axle and bush on inside to space out of the 4262 technic plate.
Bush is also mounted on outside to simulate hub both on truck and trailer. Would really want black hubs, but that bush is rare in black.

Now there is just a few things to change and I`m happy with this modded MOC.

 

Edit: I do see a problem with my design. The foremost 1x5 plate that suppoert the towball plate comes in conflict with the 5th wheel. Would rather not remove that 1x5 plate.
That means a slight redesign of the 5th wheel...


Edit 2: Got it I think!

Today I fixed the cylinders.
Designer has used 65487 pin hus (pivot ends on cylinders), but these doesn`t actually fit together with the bar that makes the piston rod.
I had to drill these out to 3mm to accept the bar which is 3mm.
On the IO 3d model you could see these parts as clear and that is a feature that tells you that a part don`t fit or collide.
So I swapped these out with 15100 which looks like the same pin hub, but takes those 3mm bars, or rod if you will.
I also redesigned the forward ramp over the cab, keeping the length, but changing how its build. 
Now each ramp is 4 stud wide all the way and the attachment point for the cylinder is the same as the rest of the truck.
The old setup did crash at the pivot point from cylinder to ramp as they had steeper angle than allowed in real life.
In real life the hinges also has 22.5 degree for each step and this would put the ramp about 1cm over the hood, which would be a nightmare to drive with.
Some parts also changed on those cylinders that hold that ramp.



What`s more Texas than cow horns? Nothing! This is something Boss Hogg would have for sure!


This is more like it!

 

I think I`m finished now...

Have made the wheelarch on the trailer smoother, lengthen the foremost cylinders on the trailer. shortned the rearmost cylinders on the truck. tiled the whole trailer in the middle to strengthen it and shuffled around a few plates under the sleeper cab to make it stronger...



Now the transistion over the wheelarch on trailler is smooth.


Compared to the builders big hump on the ramp in the middle, mine is much better I think.
Notice I also moved the inner hinges one stud outwards so its the same as the rest of the truck...


Now it`S time to make the PDF manual..
400 steps will take a while....

I have also fitted technick beams to the trailer to support the front, wheelarch and rear part.
It`s so much stronger now. Don`t fall apart when you work on it as it did before...

Did a bit more work, this time final, I think lol 

Redid the front ramp with fewer parts, new hinges and modded the lift sylinders.
There is also added support under the truck bed and sleeper cab.
Chassis also changed to black.
In a few days time I will order parts to mod my truck so it dosen`t crumble to bits anymore...







Front ramp consist now of 4x8 plate + 1x4 plate so it is 9 stud long as before, but now 4 stud wide all the way.
Underside is supported by 2x6 plate and hinge is 2444 connected to 15100 pin hub and secured with technic 2l pin.


I also managed to hide the on off switch for the future lights in plain view.
On the left of the backwindow there is a 1x2 snot brick (brick with studs on side) and a 1x2 tile. The snot brick will receive 2x 3mm magnets and the the underside of the tile will have a knifeblade glued to the underside (thinnest steel I can think off). When tile is on the circuit is closed and lights are on. When removed the lights goes out...

Last week I receive a lot of technic parts from a Lego auction.
Mostly pins, axles, bar (rod) and bushes.
I guess it was about 1kg which I paid ca 8 euro for. Not bad at all. I will never go empty of technic pins anymore lol!



Bummer I was outbid on a large batch of Lego plates this weekend, which I need for this Auto Transport to make it stronger. Oh well. Bricklink it is then!

I have added all of my Lego sets on my list of Lego on Rebrickable.
But the 6393 Semi Truck was not on that site as sub model of 6393.
I do have this truck in my collection.

So I quickly made it in Rebricklink Studio and then made a render, which is this.


Then I submitted it to Rebrickable and should soon be a sub model if all goes ok.
To submitt a sub model you have to choose the kit number, upload a render and then all the parts needed to build it.
When a sub model is uploaded, a PDF is not needed.
Only if you make it a MOC. Since Lego made this model you can`t charge money for it, only for your own creations.

How it looks in studio before the render was made.

Today more parts for the Auto Transport arrived, mainly to get it more solid and new 5th wheel...

Start of the new chassis which consist of 3x 16 stud and 3x 12 stud technic bricks.
The new chassis is 1 brick and 1 plate thick, aka 4 plates from rear to between cab and sleeper.
From cab forward it is 1 brick and 2 plates thick.
Before it was 2 plates thick under sleeper and it would crumble when trying to lift it...


New chassis in place. Already here it feels much much stronger.


Finished for now.
Ofcourse I forgot to order 2x 2x4 tiles for the end so I can make a flat Texas bumper.
Buffalo horns fitted 


The new 5th wheel. The ball has axle end fitted to the hole in 5th wheel so it will go with the trailer for easy hook up.
70% of the rear end is redisgned. Had to remove the inner rear tires to clear the support for the 5th wheel.




Again I forgot to order a few parts so some alternatives are being used. Can`t see them when it`s standing.


The toothed ends on the technic plates means that the can be fitted in notches of 22.5 degrees.
Got tight for tires so they had to be removed.


One of the most annoying things on this build is the fuel tanks that pop off all the time. It`s only helt to chassis by 3 studs.
I fitted a 3938/3937 hinge bruck and this made it much more secure. But the ends still pops off now and then. The round plates has poor grip.


Again I forgot to order a few parts, this time 2x 1x2-1x2 inverted bracket in light bluish grey. Or rather I ordered 2 instead of 4....
So I had to use a pair of black ones.
But I did fit the bumper lights.


Now I can lift the whole truck by the sleeper. Feels very solid now. The 3 wide stud chassis has 5 stud plates fitted on top of chassis which the sleeper sits on. 30 studs instead of 18 studs helps a lot in strength! (6 studs long and 5 stud wide vs 6 studs long and 3 wide).


Bumper lights just hower over the ground, just barely. I guess less than 1 plate thickness.


5th wheel clears as well.





Now I wait on 2 more packages which has the 4x8 plates for the most forward ramp and the hup pins that makes the ends of the cylinders.
Current ones is modded by drilling with 3mm drill bit to fit the rods, while the ones I`ve ordered fits the rods without modding. A design fault by designer. There is a few on this build.
New will be rebuilding the trailer for the new tow hitch and fit the support rod under the trailer to keep it from sagging.
The technich bricks with holes have holes of 4.8mm and instead of buying a expensive long technic axle that bend I have bought H.S pianowire of 4.8, or 4.76mm as it is in inches. Already tested and it fits perfectly.
After this I concider this build for done.