|
and as a bonus the parts that come with the arms, there is a set of bottom spring cup thingamejigs which fit the springs on the CVA's you sent me. just need to cut off the ball joint bits, drill a hole through the centre, to fit the piston rods on the shocks, then screw the new metal ball joints on. rear shocks...SORTED
|
|
|
Please Log in to join the conversation. |
|
and..............here it is, completely cobbled together at the moment as i still need to get the proper screws and longer steering arms, but you get the picture! (pun intended!)
i think the shocks need to be on the slightly taller setting as the wheels dont sit flat on the floor, plus i'm wondering if the front is actually too wide now |
|
|
Please Log in to join the conversation. |
|
I don't know, ludicrous camber angles were all the rage in last years F1 & British Touring Cars |
|
Please Log in to join the conversation. |
|
I like the ultra wide stance. But you could go back to the normal Hopper steering blocks if it's too much for you...
Or put some wheel spacers in the back wheel (possibly 2mm) to match them more with the front. The shocks look beautiful - the tension is (ring) adjustable, right? You can see what angle the arms naturally are by lifting the front and letting the wheels hang free. Then you could determine if you need to add more spring tension or create extra overall length on top of the U-bracket. |
|
|
Please Log in to join the conversation.
Last edit: by Edou.
|